2012 JANUARY GARDEN CHORES

GARDEN PATCH POINTERS
By Robert H. and Hoberley Schuler

2012 JANUARY GARDEN CHORES

Gardening Chores for January can keep you busy when the sun shines and on rainy days as well. Holidays are over, and gardeners are clutching their pruners and are eyeing their shovels with an itchy foot eager to start digging into the soil. Don’t start to turn over the garden soil until you are able to take a fist full of soil, squeeze it and it crumbles easily when it hits the ground. During damp days you can prune and if the weather is really bad, stay in and finish ordering your seeds for planting. Of course you can always pull the ever present weeds!

Dormant pruning - While the soil is drying out, prune your dormant trees. Prune vigorously growing fruit trees, shrubs, and roses, it is better to prune and make a few mistakes than not to prune at all. For vigorously growing fruit trees, such as peaches, plums, and apricots, a general rule is to remove two-thirds of last year’s growth. Slow growth fruits such as apples, cherry, pear and almond, need little more than removal of misplaced, spindly, over-long or dead branches. Never remove more that 25% of the tree’s growth at one time. It is recommended that the tree be pruned so that fruit on the tree will not be pruned higher than you can reach without a ladder. Bare-root stock should be pruned to balance roots and tops. A reputable nurseryman will prune his stock if you ask at the time of purchase.

Evergreen fruit and shade trees need little pruning except grooming out the dead wood, crossing or in-growing branches. Trees that are very dense should be opened up to avoid wind damage and to let the sun into the center of the tree.

Grapes should be cut back to the main structure of the plant, leaving two buds per side-shoot as a general rule. Berries need to be cut back, spent canes removed, and new sucker growth controlled. On heavy-growth flowering vines, clear out matted undergrowth, and thin or head back new shoots. Spring flowering trees and shrubs should not be pruned until after flowering. Since pruning encourage new growth, do not prune frost damaged plants or subtropicals until after the last frost.

Prune roses this month 18 to 24 inches above the ground leaving the inside of the crown free from crossed branches and open to let the sun and air penetrate. Find an outside node (eye) with five leaves and cut at a slant ¼ inch above it on the stem. Remove any old branches, and leaves making room for this year’s new growth. Climbing roses can be espaliered and pruned by removing last year’s upright growth, do not prune the end of the branch unless you want the rose limb to stop growing in that direction.

Many old garden roses that flower only in the spring, including ramblers, should not be pruned until after blooming this spring.

Rose pruning demonstrations will be held this month and in early February by your local nurseries, Master Gardeners or check with a local garden club for demonstration dates.

Protect newly planted trees from being uprooted by the winter winds with stakes. After the first year, trees should be loosely staked. A new tree needs to bend with the winds to produce strong roots.

Dormant spraying is needed to control spring pests and leaf curl fungus. Spray with lime sulfur and horticultural oil or with a fixed copper and oil solution. Drench entire tree and the soil around it with a spray. Do not use sulfur on apricot tree bark. Do not apply dormant spray to any foliage. Use an all-purpose spray (not dormant spray) on evergreen ornamentals to protect against red spider, thrips and scale.

Keep soggy leaves removed from under trees and shrubs as this could be a haven for pest nests and snails/slugs. Remove any weeds and add new mulch to conserve water this spring and summer.

Bare-root planting is at its peak this month. There are so many varieties of grapes and berries, artichokes, asparagus, and horseradish to choose from. If your soil has not dried out for immediate planting, cover roots with soil or plant temporarily in containers. Add to your rose garden by choosing a new rose from this year’s selection. Do not plant the grafted portion of the stock below ground level. Plant potted stock of hardy shrubs, vines, trees, and deciduous and evergreen perennials during the next two months. Wait until warmer weather to plant subtropicals.

Summer bulbs of amaryllis, calla, canna, crocosmia, cyclamen, dahlia, gladiolas, lilies, nerine, and tigridia should be planted now. Plant your gladiolas bulbs every two weeks until May (successive planting) for continuous flowers. You can also plant gladiola bulbs in 2 or 3 gallon pots, spacing 1 to 2 inches apart. Cover the bulbs with 2 inches of soil, adding more soil as they grow above the soil if needed. Plant a container every three weeks. If you have limited space for containers, you can move the containers to an inconspicuous place to enable the bulbs to build energy for next year keeping the leaves on the bulbs. Visit your nursery for other bulbs available this month for planting in containers or the ground.
Camellias will start to bloom this month during their dormant period. This is a good time to purchase and plant a new variety and/or relocate an existing one. Make certain the soil drains well in the hole and do not plant too deep (the top roots like to be barely covered with soil near the base). Camellias and azaleas should be planted while they are in bloom; it’s a good time to find new colors for your garden.

Spring flowering perennials such as Achilles, agapanthus, bergenia, calla, canna, chrysanthemum, daisy, daylily, red-hot poker, penstemon, phlox and others are available in pony packs.

Annuals that can complete your spring garden include, calendulas, cinerarias, companula, dianthus, pansies, poppies, primulas, snapdragons, stocks, and violas, but avoid warm weather summer plants such as marigolds until warmer weather is here.

Seeds of annuals or perennials that can be planted indoors later this month include ageratum, carnation, calendula, cosmos, impatiens, marigolds, nasturtium, and petunias.

Vegetable plants include broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, lettuce, parsley and peas. Check your seed tables to see if it is time to plant seeds of Bok Choi, beets, chard or greens, lettuce, carrots, onions, oriental greens, parsley, peas, potato eyes, radishes, and turnips can be planted now. Roots and bulbs of artichokes, asparagus, garlic, horseradish, onion, and shallot can also be planted when available.

Radish seeds which are fast growing can be planted two inches from a row of carrots, onions or parsnips as these are slow growing. This a great way to mark the location of slower growing seeds.

Herb seeds can be started indoors by a sunny window or under lights for March planting outdoors.

If you expect more snow and cold weather, wait until the weather warms up to accomplish the above activities.

Robert H. Schuler, M.G.
rhschuler@frontier.com

GARDEN PATCH POINTERS
By Robert H. and Hoberley Schuler
OSU Master Gardeners; National & CGCI
Garden Study and Landscaping Design Master Consultants