August 2010 Garden Activities

Is your garden ready for the August weather? Are you planning a trip away from your garden this month? I hope that you have someone to oversee the garden to make sure that your plants get adequate watering. Make a list of special things that need to be watered and special requirements that need attention before you leave. Check your automatic equipment to make sure it is in order and functioning properly.

Things to do before you leave, could include heavy watering and mulching, soak containers in a tub of water so they are completely moist; drill some 2 inch diameter holes in the ground at newer trees, to give them extra water. Check to make sure the automatic sprinkler system is watering sufficiently. You may want to add an extra watering day to the clock until you get back. Make certain that all sprinklers and drip emitters are working properly. Turn your compost pile and dampen with water.

With the current hot weather, watering remains the most important garden job for August. Foliage on most shrubs, trees, and flower plants has hardened and there is a little less demand watering. Harvesting crops is important for the vegetable gardener; the rose fancier needs to deep soak, wash off pests from leaves and feed a balanced fertilizer for the big fall bloom. Roses need a light pruning (no more than one third of the bush) for larger blooms this fall. Deadhead (snip off old flowers before they seed) for more blooms and pinch back the stem tips of leggy plants to keep them dense and ready for new branches and leaves to appear before fall.

Flowers that bloom now and into fall, if deadheaded, are ageratum, coreopsis, cosmos, butterfly bush, gaillardia, marigolds, petunias, and zinnias. Flowers that bloom freely without deadheading include: alyssum, begonias, impatiens, lantana, portulaca, sedum, scabiosa, and vinca rosea. Check your nursery for perennials that can be planted this month for blooms with bold and warm colors. Gorgeous coleus plants that I grew from seed are being planted throughout my shade garden. They will add more color to the caladiums that are in full color. Flowers that trail over the edge of walls and containers include: bacopa, companula, ivy geranium, nierembergia, nasturtiums, cascading petunias, and many perennials that have been hybridized for that purpose.

Flower seeds that can be sown in flats in a shaded area and planted in the sun or part shade later include: calendulas, candytuft, fairy primrose, forget-me-not, Iceland poppies, nemesia, ornamental cabbage, pansy, snap dragon, stocks, and sweet peas. Plant bachelor buttons and larkspur seed directly into the ground in late September.

Vegetable seeds for a cool weather winter garden can be planted in late September, (or August in cooler zones) include: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, chard, collards, kale, kohlrabi, oriental greens and spinach. Plant seeds of beets, carrots, “short day” onions, and turnip seeds directly into the ground.

Pea seeds can be planted in pony packs after August 15th for planting in the garden in September. Planting in pony packs or flats will protect the seeds and new shoots from the birds. The perfect broccoli for the garden is one that when the head is cut off, produces more heads or side shoots to harvest. ‘Green Comet’ or ‘DiCicco’ are good selections for continued harvesting. While the seeds are sprouting in the pony packs, prepare the garden for them by amending the soil with compost or well rotted manure for a continued crop. Plant the plants in full sun and plant every few weeks for successive harvest. Celery plants, if available, can be planted this month.

Summer bulbs from South Africa are available now. When you see them at the nurseries, grab them before they are gone, even though you wait until September to plant them. These bulbs will naturalize in our climate: freesia, ixia, sparaxis, spider lily, star of Bethlehem, and zepher. Wait until September or October to divide and transplant your iris.

If faded dahlias are cut back, new growth and new blooms will be produced. Perennials need trimming back at the end of the first bloom.

Use a strong jet of water to remove pests such as mildew, spider mites, thrips, whiteflies, and the many bugs that thrive in hot weather. Check your nursery for organic sprays that will kill persistent pests.

Late-blooming shrubs can add color to your garden and those special garden rooms. Check your nursery for shrubs that are blooming now.

There is still enough hot weather ahead to plant subtropicals such as, bougainvillea, mandevilla, citrus, abutilon (flowering maples), and avocados if your area is warm enough for tropical plants. Keep avocado roots covered with their leaves. Keep them moist; they should have their third feeding of the year.

Shade trees can be planted out from 5 to 15 gallon containers. They will have a chance to get established before winter and will have a distinct growth advantage over shade trees planted bare root in the winter, (except for their cost). Keep them watered and in some shade for a few days. Check your nursery for flowering shrubs and trees that are blooming for ideas on what you could add to your garden in the future.

Cut off mint leaves and freeze in ice cubes for a decorative and flavorful drink.

Pruning should be limited this month to light pruning of shrubs such as abelia, and pyracantha to control ungainly branches that have sprouted. Fuchsias, impatiens, and marguerites respond to tip pruning for more new growth and flowers. Keep your herbs pinched back to just above mature leaves for growth of new stems and leaves. Cut up to two-thirds of a basil plant every 3 – 4 weeks during the summer.

Cut back spent hydrangea flowers, leaving three nodes for next years growth. Prune off water sprouts from citrus and fruit trees. Remove flowers from heathers after blooming so next year’s blossoms will not be above a bare stem.

Strawberry plants that develop runners and plantlets need to have them removed. Start the plantlets in a tray filled with peat moss and perlite (50% each). After they root, you can add them to your garden or give them to a friend. Fewer runners make for better fruit on the main plant. I add 0-10-10 fertilizer for bigger fruit (no nitrogen).

Lawns need watering to root depth and no deeper. To conserve water and prevent root diseases, water early in the morning. The warm-season grasses can have a light fertilizing, but don’t start a feeding program for cool-season grasses until the weather cools. Check your automatic watering system to make certain you have proper watering times.

Keep herbs pinched back to encourage fresh growth. Harvest many of the herbs this month and dry for use later. Cut tarragon and cilantro can be placed in a container with one inch of water at the cut stems, put in refrigerator or cool place. Change the water often. Cut chives with scissors for use in cooking.

Check the nurseries for fragrant shrubs, vines, and plants to add color to your garden. Maybe a new color in a Crape Myrtle tree will be just what you are looking for.

Remember to plan your trips to the nursery early in the morning or as the last stop before going home. Plants do not like a hot vehicle!

Robert H. Schuler, M.G.
rhschuler@verizon.net for any garden questions
GPP# 83 for week of July 31, 2010 “August Activities”

GARDEN PATCH POINTERS By Robert H. and Hoberley Schuler UC Davis & OSU Master Gardeners; National and CGCI Garden Study and Landscaping Design Master Consultants