Garden Patch Pointers:

October Pointers

 

 

 

 

Send your garden question to rhschuler@verizon.net

Garden Patch Pointers for October
By Master Gardeners Robert H. and Hoberley Schuler

“Gardeners who have migrated to California” are wondering if it even rains. Often they have difficulty adjusting to the year-round planting schedule of a warmer climate. Almost any tree/shrub put in the ground in October makes root growth all through winter even if the top is unchanged. By spring, it has enjoyed three to four months more root growth than a bare-root planted in January, and it will take off growing as soon as the weather warms. It will also withstand the occasional hot spell we can get in late winter and early spring.

With these thoughts in mind, it is time to shop the nurseries for flowering shrubs, trees, and vines. This is the month to look for fall colors. This is your last chance to plant citrus for it to get well established before spring. Do not plant sub-tropicals that are frost tender.

ANNUALS and PERENNIALS- Plants now available at the nurseries are numerous and include special colorful containers for all pink, white, blue, etc. in the garden areas. You can plant Achillea, agapanthus, calendula, campanulas, carnation, clivia, cineraria, columbine, coral bells, cyclamen, daylilies, delphinium, dianthus, dusty miller, English Daisies, foxglove, gazania, gerbera, geum, hellebore, Iceland poppies, lavenders and other herbs, lobelia, margarite, nerembergia, pansy, penstemon, petunias, pinks, phlox, primrose, Shasta daisies, snapdragon, stock, sweet peas, sweet Williams, tulbaghia, viola, violet, and many more annuals and perennials in your prepared garden. I like to add some 5.5.5 fertilizer in the bottom of the hole; cover with a little soil and water to give the new plants a good start while the weather is still warm.

DROUGHT TOLERANT PLANTS- This is the perfect month to plant drought tolerant plants in your garden. Check out the many demonstration gardens that are selling these plants.

SEEDS- that can be planted include: alyssum, bachelor buttons, African daisies, California poppies, annual candytuft, forget-me-nots, nasturtium, sweet peas, and wildflower mixtures. Seeds such as alyssum, fairy primeroses, Iceland poppies, linaria, nemesia, pansies, and violas can be scattered over the area with their low growing habit. They will not interfere with bulb growth.

BULBS- As annuals start to fade, prepare your beds for your new bulbs. In heavy soils, dig nitrogen-fortified redwood compost into the bed to improve good drainage to add to the life of the bulb. This is a good time to add bone-meal and superphosphate below the new bulb roots. Most bulbs require at least 4 to 6 hours of sun each day.

Check out the many bulbs that are available at the nurseries. They come in all sizes and shapes. This can be confusing as to where the roots will form. When in doubt, plant the bulb sideways.

REMEMBER that crocus, hyacinth, and tulips, require six (6) weeks in the refrigerator before planting. Ranunculus bulbs should wait until the first of November to be planted (with the “fingers” down).

Try not to plant bulbs in rows – be artistic with groups or masses. Place the tallest plants in the back. As gladiolas become available, plant a few bulbs every ten days through February for continuous bloom. Try a few of the smaller bulbs in containers to brighten the patio when they are in bloom.

After planting your narcissus and daffodils, interplant clumps of scilla, anemone, Dutch iris, and bulbs of the sweet smelling freesias to add variety. This year try planting ixias, sparaxis, watsonia and canna bulbs.

Tuberous begonias and caladiums that have died back may be lifted from their pots now. Clean off the bulbs and tubers and allow them to dry in the shade for a few days before storing them in a cool dry place until March or April.

Roots and bulbs of asparagus, horseradish, onion, and garlic do well.

PERENNIALS- Check your overgrown perennials such as columbines, calla and canna lilies, coral bells, daylilies, gazanias, geum, herbs, iris, penstemon, phlox, Shasta daisy, etc. for dividing and replanting. Cut back drying growth of perennial phlox, chrysanthemum etc. Continue to pinch off the side buds of dahlias and camellias for larger blossoms.

PRUNING- Pruning requirements for October are usually limited to thinning out shrub plants where there is a risk of wind damage. Staking small trees that are vulnerable to winds is advisable; check trees to make certain the stakes are not too tight. Stake and tie chrysanthemum plants to prevent drooping and breaking. If you grow spring flowering shrubs such as forsythia, philadelphus, weigela, or viburnum, they will need a light pruning to remove basal suckers and some of last spring’s flowered branches to encourage spring bloom.

FALL FOLIAGE TREES- are available this month. Colorful trees include red maples, crape myrtle, Chinese pistache, persimmons, flowering pears and the Japanese Maples.

MISC. CHORES- Stop feeding any plant on which new growth could be damaged by frost in November or December. Most broadleaf plants need a period to harden off leaf growth before cold weather.

Keep the ground moist; don’t let the soil dry out. As it gets cooler, the soil still needs to have moisture for healthy plants. Don’t forget to fill the bird baths every week this month with fresh water (stale water brings mosquitoes). Withhold water from your lilac bushes until January to start their dormant period. Gradually reduce watering of your pomegranate bush to reduce fruit splitting.

WINTER VEGETABLE SEEDS- Beets, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, lettuce, leek, mesclun, onions (short day types), parsley, sugar peas, turnips, radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, and turnips can be planted now.

LAWNS- Cool weather lawns can be seeded or laid with sod now. Fertilizing of your existing cool-season lawn grasses can be done now. It is best to feed only nitrogen to the lawn and not “weed & feed” as it kills beneficials as well as pests. Hot weather grasses should not be fertilized, unless you are over-seeding with rye grass.

Keep collecting fall leaves, spent summer vegetables leaves, annuals, perennials, new lawn clippings, and small shrubbery for the compost pile as your home-made compost will enhance next year’s soil. It is a good time to use your finished compost to enrich your soil. This will make your plants grow better and form strong roots.

MANY SHRUBS- with berries are available for planting this month, including holly, pyracantha, toyon, and cotoneaster. Chrysanthemums are plentiful and colorful indoors or outdoors in containers.

Protect young plants, control snails and slugs as they are just waiting for their next succulent meal. Keep the weeds under control before they reseed.

Take time to enjoy the changing leaves of October.

Robert H. Schuler, Master Gardener
rhschuler@verizon.net

GPP# 004 - OCTOBER GARDENING for week of September 29, 2008

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